Scratchbuilding a Necron Flyer

Scratchbuilding a Necron Doom/Night Scythe

By

Bill Hubbell

After looking at the latest Necron Codex (and understanding that the Doom Scythe/Night Scythe could be fielded as a Flyer for the Big Game II), I had to constructed one! I decided on a kit bashed Necron Doom Scythe/Night Scythe (DSNS) made solely from the GW Necron Command Barge/Annihilation Barge (CBAB) and the Necron Destroyer models. As with my Triarch Stalker kit bash, my intent was to use only those models and thus avoid raiding my Bitz Box and maybe actually add to my Bitz Box. For this project, 61 out of the 101 parts will be added unmolested into my Bitz Box, not including partial unused parts or the clear bases and stands. Again the intent is for anyone else to create the same model with just two easy purchases.

UPDATE: Of course, GW has finally produced a model currently on special order at $45.50. Note that it is still $10.75 cheaper to buy the $33 Command Barge model and the $20 Destroyer model in this kit bashed version since you will also have a spare Overlord which is worth $18.25! At this time, the model is only available for order, so a size comparison is not yet possible.

Required Materials

1.     A Games Workshop Necron Command Barge/Annihilation Barge Model.

2.     A Games Workshop Necron Destroyer Model

3.     Plastic Glue (use the plastic weld type, not a super-glue type as many pieces are trimmed to fit and only plastic (not Resin/Metal) pieces are used)

4.     Clippers

5.     Hobby Knife

6.     File

7.     Paint (however you like!)

Model Concept

There are a few pictures available of the DSNS within the Necron Codex on pages 50 and 51. A few other pictures show them in the background (see pages 9, 11 and 54). Again, these are artist concepts and do not exactly match each other. The only difference between the Doom Scythe and the Night Scythe is a Death Ray or a Transport Portal. With the CBAB model’s curved chassis, it has the same crescent moon shape as the DSNS. The center of the DSNS also looks exactly like the hull of a Necron Destroyer.

UPDATE: The GW model photos show there are additional differences between my kit-bashed version and the “official” version, but the kit-bashed version should still be acceptable in tournament play as it is completely out of GW products.

Assembly

I have listed all parts that are unmodified from the original directions and added photographs of the modifications/alterations.

GW CBAB ASSEMBLY DIRECTIONS (With Modifications):

Step 1 – Gunner Assembly – Skip this step completely, and put Parts # 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 21 and 22 into your bitz bin (7 NEW BITZ).

Step 2 – Pilot Assembly – Glue the Pilot’s head, body and legs together (Parts # 13, 16, 17 and 18). Note that the foot pedal support on Part # 13 will be too large for the cockpit and should be removed. You will not be able to see the feet in the completed model, so if they get a bit mangled (like the one in the photo below), it won’t matter. Keep Part # 15 on the side as it will be needed later to secure the pilot in place. Put Parts # 14 and 22 into your bitz bin. (2 NEW BITZ).

Step 3 – Thruster Assembly – Glue all four parts together as shown (Parts # 30, 60, 61 and 71) and set them aside for later.

Step 4 – Chassis & Crew Assembly – Skip this step completely. All the parts will be modified as described later (Parts # 27, 46, 68, 69 and 70).

Step 5 – Tail Assembly – Skip this step completely. Put Part # 48 aside for later. Parts # 49 and 72 will be modified as described later.

Step 6 – Prow Assembly – Skip this step completely, and put Parts # 19, 20 and 66 into your bitz bin (3 NEW BITZ). Set aside Parts # 29 and 62 for later. Parts # 65 and 67 will be modified as described later.

Step 7 – Rear Armor Assembly – Skip this step completely, and put Parts # 28. 33, 37, 54, 57 and 63 into your bitz bin (6 NEW BITZ). Parts # 31 and 39 will be modified as described later.

Step 8 – Arms Assembly – Skip this step completely, and put Parts # 25 and 26 into your bitz bin (2 NEW BITZ). Set Parts 23 and 24 aside for later.

Step 9 – Under Slung Weapon Option – Skip this step completely, and put Parts # 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 50, 51, 73, and 74 into your bitz bin (9 NEW BITZ). Glue Parts # 38 & 75 and Glue Parts # 52 & 53. Place these two cylinder assemblies aside as they will be modified later.

Step 10 – Catacomb Command Barge – Skip this step completely, and put Parts # 32, 34, 56, 58 and 64 into your bitz bin (5 NEW BITZ). You can add an Overlord to you army, or put Parts  # 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 76 and 77 into your bitz bin (10 NEW BITZ), but why wouldn’t you want another Overlord?!

Step 11 – Annihilation Barge – Glue together the Tesla Destructor Guns as shown, but place part # 47 aside for later and place Parts # 39 and 40 into your bitz bin (2 NEW BITZ).

GW DESTROYER ASSEMBLY DIRECTIONS (With Modifications):

Destroyer Assembly – Skip these directions completely, except glue the two Destroyer Body halves together. The skeleton torso and front interior fenders will need to be removed as this area will become the cockpit. Put the other 15 parts into your bitz bin (15 NEW BITZ).

NEW DIRECTIONS

Now the fun really begins! Note: In the following directions, Red marks indicate the cut locations on the pieces and the final modified parts are also shown.

Step I – Wing Assembly - Take Parts # 69 and 70 and cut them as shown. Glue the two pairs of wing halves together. Take the two Thrusters (from Step 3) and glue one to each wing as shown. 

Step IIA – Upper Hull Assembly – Take the Destroyer Body, trim the six exhaust ports and file the base until the bottom is flush to increase connection area for the base as shown. You will need to gut all the components in the front part of the Destroyer Body to make a Cockpit area as well.

Glue the two Wings to the sides of the six exhaust ports. You may glue the wings at any angle you desire, but about 15 degree down angle gives a nice affect. The air intake portion of the Wing Assembly should be flush with the front Destroyer exhaust ports.

Trim Parts # 31 and 39 as shown.

Glue the two parts over the front Wing & Hull gaps and glue Parts # 29 and 62 over the remaining Wing & Hull gaps at the end of the wings. 

Step IIB – Lower Hull Assembly – Cut the edges on Part # 46 as shown.

Cut Parts # 49 and 72 until you get three pairs of pieces as shown.

Glue Part # 46 to the Upper Hull Assembly and glue the large curved parts from Parts 49 and 72 over the gaps between Part # 46 and the Wing Assemblies.  Note that Part # 72 has a Round Detail that you will need to cut off. You may use the removed half on Part # 49 or not; it is your choice.

Step III – Hull Belly Details –Glue together the two triangular shapes made by cutting Parts # 49 and 72. Glue the two Thruster halves together and extend the slot as shown.

(Optional) Take Part # 67 and file the end flat. Glue this piece to the center of the free Hull space as shown. This will act as a spacer to mount your magnet should you decide to magnetize the model to a flying stand.

Step IV – Engine Assembly – Cut Part # 27 to obtain an Engine Mount and a Cockpit Top as shown.

Later the spare sections will be cut for a Cockpit Front Plate as shown.

If you trimmed the end tab as shown before, the Thruster should slide onto the tab. The Engine Mount will be glued to the front to give the Thruster a more aesthetic appearance and connect it to the Hull. Take the two triangular shapes made by cutting Parts # 49 and 72 and glue them toward the front of the belly as shown.

Once the Engine Assembly is dry, flip the model upright and glue Part # 47 between the two Destroyer Body halves as shown. Set the Cockpit Top and Cockpit Front Plate aside for later.

 

Step V – Death Ray Assembly – Take Part # 65 and cut as shown. File the open end of the spherical Part # 68 until it is flat. Take the two cylinder assemblies (Parts # 38 & 75 and 52 & 53) and cut/file one side of each. Glue that side together to get one long cylinder. Glue Part # 68 to one end of the long cylinder. This assembly is then glued to the modified Part # 65 as a weapon mount.

(Optional) Once the entire assembly is dry, glue it to the recess of the two triangular parts at the front of the Hull.  Note you may want to make this portion removable to change the model from a Doom Scythe to a Night Scythe.

Step VI – Tesla Destructor Assembly – Cut off the tab from Part # 10. Take both of the assembled guns from Step 11 and glue each of them to the curved pieces on the belly of the Hull as shown.

Step VII – Pilot Assembly – Take the pilot and “fit” him into the cockpit area. Take any of the two arms and attach them in place making sure that the Pilot will fit into the Cockpit.  This may require some “bending” or heavily manipulated positioning of the arms. To set the Pilot properly, I used Part # 15 and a liberal amount of glue for a “seat”.

(Optional) I strongly recommend that you paint the model, the Cockpit top and the Pilot at this point as it will be extremely difficult to paint the Pilot once the cockpit is complete.  

Step VIII – Cockpit/Final Assembly – Take the Cockpit Front Plate from Step IV and glue it to the front of the Cockpit top (optional - it may be easier to use some plasticard for this plate, if you have it available). Glue Part # 48 on the front of the Cockpit Front Plate to cover the hole and to add additional detail.

With the pilot in place (and painted), take the Cockpit Top and Front Plate assembly and also glue it into place. Also glue Part # 47 into the space above the Thruster and between the Destroyer Body halves.

You may mount your new Necron Flyer on any base you wish. I decided on a GW flight stand for my kit-bashed prototype as shown.

Congratulations, you now have your own Necron Flyer. Good luck and happy hunting!